If you’ve noticed a spike in your water bill, a damp patch on the lawn, or the sound of running water when every tap is off, you’ve probably got a hidden leak somewhere in your pipework. The tricky part isn’t knowing you have a leak – it’s finding exactly where it is without digging up the entire yard. That’s where professional leak detection equipment comes in, and it’s worth understanding how the different methods actually work so you know what you’re paying for.
Acoustic detection is usually the first tool out of the bag. A pressurised pipe with even a small leak creates a distinct hissing or vibration as water escapes under pressure, and that sound travels along the pipe itself. Using a sensitive listening device – essentially a highly tuned microphone with noise filtering – a technician can “walk the line” above a suspected pipe run and pinpoint where the sound peaks.
Acoustic gear works brilliantly on metal and rigid pipe in relatively shallow, quiet conditions. It gets harder on soft plastic pipe, very deep lines, or sites with a lot of background noise (traffic, pool pumps, busy strata complexes), which is why it’s often paired with other methods rather than used alone.
Before any acoustic work even starts, a plumber often needs to confirm a leak exists and isolate which section of pipe it’s in. This is where pressure testing comes in. The suspect line is isolated, drained, and charged with nitrogen (or in some cases compressed air) to a set pressure. If that pressure holds, the section is sound. If it drops, there’s a leak somewhere in that run.
Nitrogen is preferred over plain air in a lot of cases because it’s inert and dry, which matters when testing gas lines or newly installed copper and PVC, where moisture or oxidation could affect the result. Pressure testing won’t tell you the exact spot on its own, but it narrows the search from “somewhere under the house” to a specific, much shorter section of pipe – which is where trace gas or acoustic detection takes over.
For the trickiest jobs – slab leaks, leaks under concrete driveways, or pipe buried deep enough that acoustic signals get lost – trace gas detection is often the most accurate option available. A safe, non-toxic mix of mostly nitrogen with a small percentage of hydrogen is pumped into the isolated pipe. Hydrogen is one of the smallest molecules there is, so it escapes through even a pinhole leak and rises up through soil, concrete, or tiling to the surface.
A handheld sensor is then passed slowly over the surface above the suspected pipe run. When it detects hydrogen concentrations, it narrows in on the exact location, often to within a few centimetres. This method is especially useful because it doesn’t rely on sound at all, so it works just as well on plastic pipe as it does on copper, and it isn’t thrown off by background noise.
Thermal cameras don’t find leaks directly, but they’re a handy supporting tool. A leak from a hot water line will often create a subtle temperature difference in the surrounding slab or wall, which shows up on a thermal camera as a warmer patch. It’s quick, completely non-invasive, and useful for narrowing down a search area before switching to acoustic or trace gas equipment to confirm the exact spot.
None of these methods is a one-size-fits-all solution, and a good leak detection specialist will usually combine two or three depending on the pipe material, how deep it’s buried, and how much background noise is on site. The goal of using the right combination is simple: find the leak accurately enough that any repair involves a small, targeted dig or a single accessed point, rather than guesswork that leaves you with a trench across the whole yard.
If you suspect a hidden leak on your property, getting it pinpointed properly before any digging starts will save you time, save your garden or driveway, and usually save you money on the repair itself.
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